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Wool hand processing

This description is based on thefabric or a garment.
assumption that wool is the fibre beingRemoving the yarn from the wheel When
used. For hand-spinning most of thespinning on a spinning wheel, the yarn
fibre spun is wool, or a blendcollects on a bobbin. Once the bobbin is
containing wool. Most animal hair fibrefull, the spinner can either put on a
is handled with only a few modificationsnew bobbin, form a skein, or ball the
to the below description. Plant fibresyarn.
are prepared for spinning veryIf the yarn is to be plyed then the most
differently.common action is to put a new bobbin on
Sheep Shearing The first step inthe wheel, and leave the yarn onto the
processing the wool is to collect it.bobbin so that the spinner can ply
Shearing can be done with use ofdirectly from the bobbin. This makes for
hand-shears (tools that look like biggreatest ease when plying, but cannot be
scissors) or powered shears.done if the spinner does not have enough
Professional sheep shearers can shear abobbins. When plying from bobbins a
sheep in under a minute, without nickingdevice called a lazy kate is often used
the sheep once. At many state fairsto hold the bobbins.
there are sheep shearing contests, toIf the spinner has the end result (i.e.
see who can shear a sheep the fastest.the yarn is already plied or is not
These contests mainly include older men,going to be), then most likely they will
with only a few youngsters.make a skein out of the yarn. A skein is
When the fleece comes off the sheep ita coil of yarn twisted into a loose
should be in one piece. Also, it is bestknot.
if the shearer cuts close enough to theIt is either formed on a niddy-noddy or
skin that a second cutting is notsome other type of skein winder.
required. Second cuts make for veryTraditionally niddy-noddys looked like
short fibres, which are more difficultan uppercase "i", with the bottom half
and not as much fun to deal with androtated 90 degrees [3]. Now days
spin.spinning wheel manufactures also make
Primitive breeds, like the Scottish Soayniddy-noddys that attach onto the
sheep have to be plucked, not sheared,spinning wheel [4] for faster skein
as the kemps are still longer than thewinding.
soft fleece, (a process called rooing)Rarely is the yarn balled directly after
or the fleece must be collected from thespinning. Normally hand-spun yarn will
field after it falls out.be stored in skein form, and transferred
Skirting Skirting basically meansto a ball only if needed. (For example,
disposing of all wool that is unsuitableknitting from a skein, unless done very
for spinning (too short, has sheep dungcarefully, ends up with the yarn in
in it, etc.) One often could spin thisknots, so it is best to ball it first.)
wool, with much extra effort, if onePly Plying yarn is when one takes a
wanted. (The dung can be washed out, thestrand of spun yarn (one strand is often
short fibres - though with greatercalled a single) and spins it together
difficulty than longer ones - can bewith other strands in order to make a
spun, and other objections can bethicker yarn. There are several ways,
similarly dealt with.) Thus this stepthe most common being regular and
can be skipped if necessary. It can alsoNavajo.
be done at the same time as carding.Regular plying consists of taking two or
Cleaning Before carding the wool, itmore singles and twisting them together,
must be cleaned. At this point thethe opposite way. This can be done on
fleece is full of lanolin and ofteneither a spinning wheel or a spindle.
contains vegetable matter, such asThe most important thing to remember
sticks, twigs, burs and straw. One waythough is that the twist must go the
to prevent the vegetable matter fromopposite direction. If in spinning the
getting into the fleece is to have thesingle the wheel was spinning clockwise
sheep wear a coat all year round.(which is called a "Z" twist, as on any
At this point there are two ways to go.given side the fibres appear to cross
The first is to simply pick out thediagonally in the same direction as the
vegetable matter, and move on to thediagonal of a "Z"), in order to ply it
next step. The lanolin is kept in thethe wheel must spin counter-clockwise
wool.(an "S" twist).
People who enjoy spinning 'in theThis is because otherwise you are not
grease' (i.e. spinning with the lanolinbalancing the twist, just twisting it
still in the wool) prefer this method,more. The concept is similar to when a
and wait to wash the lanolin out untilheavily twisted piece of yarn is folded,
they finish spinning. The lanolin can beand it twists up on itself. It is most
left in the wool after spinning as well,common for singles to be spun with a "Z"
making the fabric or garment watertwist, and then plied with an "S" twist.
repellent. If one doesn't want to spinNavajo plying consists of making large
in the grease, the other option is toloops, similar to crocheting. First make
take both the vegetable matter and thea loop about 8 inches long through the
lanolin out.loop on the end on the leader. (A leader
Washing the wool at this stage can be ais the string left on the bobbin to spin
tedious process, if you let it. Someoff of.) Start spinning all three
people wash it a small handful at a timestrands together in the opposite
very carefully, and then set it out todirection than that they were spun in.
dry on a table in the sun. Other peopleWhen only 2 to 3 inches remain of the
will stick the whole fleece in a tub ofloop, pull a new loop of yarn through
water and soap (dishwashing detergentthe loop, and continue spinning. The new
works well), let it sit, swish itloop should be around 7 inches long.
around, and refill the tub with newRepeat this process until the yarn is
water occasionally until the fleece isall plied. Only one single is necessary,
clean (of soap and dirt). One cardingand if the single is already dyed this
mill puts the fleece in a washingtechnique allows it to be plied without
machine (that has been slightly modifiedruining the colour scheme. This
for this purpose) and melts the lanolintechnique also allows the spinner to try
away by soaking the fleece in very hotto match up thick and thin spots in the
water. All these methods work. The thingyarn, thus making for a smoother end
not to do when washing fleece is to rubproduct.
it against itself too much. If theMost spinners (who use spinning wheels)
fleece gets agitated, it will becomeply from bobbins. This is easier than
felt, and then spinning it isplying from balls because there is less
impossible. Felting, when done onchance for the yarn to become tangled
purpose (with needles, chemicals, orand knotted if it is simply unwound from
simply rubbing the fibres against eachthe bobbins. So that the bobbins can
other), can be used to create garments.unwind freely, they are put in a device
Carding Before spinning it is a goodcalled a lazy kate, or sometimes simply
idea to get the fleece into a slightlykate. The simplest lazy kate consists of
more manageable state. It is possible towooden bars with a metal rod running
spin directly from a fleece, if it is abetween them. Most hold between three
very clean one, but it is much easier toand four bobbins. The bobbin sits on the
spin a carded fleece. Carding by handmetal rod. Other lazy kates are built
yields a rolag, a loose woollen roll ofwith devices that create an adjustable
fibres.amount of tension, so that if the yarn
Using a drum carder yields a bat, whichis jerked, a whole bunch of yarn is not
is a mat of fibres in a flat,wound off, then wound up again in the
rectangular shape. Most carding millsopposite direction. Some spinning wheels
return the fleece in a roving , which iscome with a built in lazy kate. Picture
a stretched bat; it is very long andof lazy kates, with tension device.
often the thickness of a wrist. (AWashing If the lanolin was not washed
pencil roving is a roving thinned to theout before, this is the point at which
width of a pencil. It is often used forit gets washed out, unless the lanolin
knitting without any spinning, or foris to be left in the cloth as a water
beginning spinners.) Many hand-spinnersrepellent. When washing a skein it works
send their wool out to carding mills towell to let the wool soak in soapy water
be carded, as one good-sized fleece mayovernight, and rinse the soap out in the
take weeks to card with a drum-carder,morning. Dishwashing detergents are
or an eternity by hand. If the fleece iscommonly used, and a special laundry
sent to a carding mill, it must bedetergent designed for washing wool is
washed before carded.not required. The dishwashing detergent
Most mills offer washing the wool as aworks and does not harm the wool. After
service, with extra fees if the wool iswashing, let the wool dry (air drying
exceptionally dirty. Other hand-spinnersworks best). Once it is dry, or just a
simply buy their fibres pre-carded.bit damp, one can stretch it out a bit
Spinning Hand spinning can be done manyon a niddy-noddy. Putting the wool back
different ways, the two most commonon the niddy-noddy makes for a nicer
being by use of the spinning wheel orlooking finished skein. Before taking a
the spindle.skein and washing it, the skein must be
Spinning turns the carded wool fibrestied up loosely in about six places. If
into yarn which can then be directlythe skein is not tied up, it will be
woven, knitted (flat or circular),very hard to unravel when done washing.
crocheted, or by other means turned into



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