Fabric Formation

Once the fiber has been turned into yarn the processeither side of the loom with one hand, and across a
of making cloth is much the same for any type ofgreater width. The invention of the drop box allowed a
fibre, be it animal or plant.weaver to use multiple shuttles to carry different
Knitting Knitting by hand is a trend that is slowlywefts.
growing throughout the United States. CommonlyAfter passing a weft thread through the warp, a reed
knitted goods are scarfs (both decorative andcomb used to beat (compact) the woven weft.
functional), sweaters, socks and shawls. Hand knittingRather than having to lift each thread individually,
can either be done "flat" or "in the round". Flat knitting isalternate threads can be separated by introducing a
done on a set of single point knitting needles, and thebar between the threads: the gap created is called the
knitter goes back and forth, adding rows.shed. While an inserted bar only presents one
In Circular knitting, or "knitting in the round", the knitterorientation, alternating sets of threads can be lifted by
knits around a circle, creating a tube. This can be doneconnecting them with string or wires called heddles to
with either double pointed needles or a circular needle.another bar, called the shaft (or heddle bar or heald).
Since knitting in essence is pulling one row of loops ofHeddles, shafts and the couper (lever to lift the
yarn through another row, a knitted object will unravelassembly) are called the harness — the
easily if the top has not been secured. Knitted objectsharness provides for mechanical operation using foot-
also stretch easily in all directions, whereas wovenor hand-operated treadles.
fabric only stretches on the bias.(Multiple harnesses can be used, connected to
Crochet Crocheting differs largely from knitting in thatdifferent sets of warp threads in a draw-loom.) Sleying
there is only one loop, not the multitude as knitting has.is the process of threading the warp yarn through the
Also, instead of knitting needles, a crochet hook isreed. Usually one speaks of "sleying the reed". You set
used. Other than that it is vaguely similar, and is often(verb) the warp at X ends per inch and then you can
mistaken for knitting. Lace is commonly crocheted, assay that its sett (noun) is X ends per inch.
well as a large variety of other items.Process The first step in weaving is to make a warp,
Lace A lace fabric is lightweight openwork fabric,the threads that run lengthwise perpendicular to you.
patterned, with open holes in the work. The holes canBy hand this is done with the help of a warping board.
be formed via removal of threads or cloth from aThe length the warp is made is about a quarter to half
previously woven fabric, but more often lace is built upyard more than the amount of cloth they will be able
from a single thread and the open spaces are createdto get off the loom, because of waste at the beginning
as part of the lace fabric.and end. Since with smaller lengths of warp means a
Weaving The earliest weaving was done without ahigher percentage of wasted yarn, and since threading
loom, but that is rare now.the loom can be tedious, most weavers put on many
Loom In general the supporting structure of the loom isyards at a time. The weaver decides what length of a
called the frame.warp to put on the loom, then measures it out on the
The frame provides the means of fixing thewarping board. Warping boards come in a variety of
length-wise threads, called the warp, and keeping themshapes, from the two nearest door handles to a board
under tension. When producing a long piece of material,with pegs on it, or a tall umbrella swift like device.
the warp threads are wound on a roller called a beam,Machine processing: fabric formation Knitting Knitting by
and attached to the cloth beam which will serve tomachine is done in two different ways; warp and weft.
hold the finished material. Because of the tension theWeft knitting is what can be seen in the pictures, and
warp threads are under, they need to be strong.is how hand knitting is done. The cloth is made from
The thread that is woven through the warp is calledone yarn and the stitches are all connected to each
the weft. The weft is threaded through the warp usingother horizontally. In a warp knit there are many pieces
a shuttle, which carries the weft through separatedof yarn and there are vertical chains, zigzagged
warp threads. The original hand-loom was limited intogether by crossing the yarn.
width by the weaver's reach, because of the need toWarp knits do not stretch as much as a weft knit, and
throw the shuttle from hand to hand. The invention ofit is run-resistant. A weft knit is not run-resistant, but
the flying shuttle with its fly cord and picking sticksstretches more and is slightly more common. The
enabled the weaver to pass the shuttle from a box ataverage t-shirt is a weft knit.