Wool hand processing

This description is based on the assumption that woolgarment.
is the fibre being used. For hand-spinning most of theRemoving the yarn from the wheel When spinning on
fibre spun is wool, or a blend containing wool. Mosta spinning wheel, the yarn collects on a bobbin. Once
animal hair fibre is handled with only a fewthe bobbin is full, the spinner can either put on a new
modifications to the below description. Plant fibres arebobbin, form a skein, or ball the yarn.
prepared for spinning very differently.If the yarn is to be plyed then the most common
Sheep Shearing The first step in processing the woolaction is to put a new bobbin on the wheel, and leave
is to collect it. Shearing can be done with use ofthe yarn onto the bobbin so that the spinner can ply
hand-shears (tools that look like big scissors) ordirectly from the bobbin. This makes for greatest ease
powered shears.when plying, but cannot be done if the spinner does
Professional sheep shearers can shear a sheep innot have enough bobbins. When plying from bobbins a
under a minute, without nicking the sheep once. Atdevice called a lazy kate is often used to hold the
many state fairs there are sheep shearing contests, tobobbins.
see who can shear a sheep the fastest. TheseIf the spinner has the end result (i.e.
contests mainly include older men, with only a fewthe yarn is already plied or is not going to be), then
youngsters.most likely they will make a skein out of the yarn. A
When the fleece comes off the sheep it should be inskein is a coil of yarn twisted into a loose knot.
one piece. Also, it is best if the shearer cuts closeIt is either formed on a niddy-noddy or some other
enough to the skin that a second cutting is not required.type of skein winder.
Second cuts make for very short fibres, which areTraditionally niddy-noddys looked like an uppercase "i",
more difficult and not as much fun to deal with andwith the bottom half rotated 90 degrees [3]. Now days
spin.spinning wheel manufactures also make niddy-noddys
Primitive breeds, like the Scottish Soay sheep have tothat attach onto the spinning wheel [4] for faster skein
be plucked, not sheared, as the kemps are still longerwinding.
than the soft fleece, (a process called rooing) or theRarely is the yarn balled directly after spinning. Normally
fleece must be collected from the field after it falls out.hand-spun yarn will be stored in skein form, and
Skirting Skirting basically means disposing of all wooltransferred to a ball only if needed. (For example,
that is unsuitable for spinning (too short, has sheepknitting from a skein, unless done very carefully, ends
dung in it, etc.) One often could spin this wool, withup with the yarn in knots, so it is best to ball it first.) Ply
much extra effort, if one wanted. (The dung can bePlying yarn is when one takes a strand of spun yarn
washed out, the short fibres - though with greater(one strand is often called a single) and spins it
difficulty than longer ones - can be spun, and othertogether with other strands in order to make a thicker
objections can be similarly dealt with.) Thus this stepyarn. There are several ways, the most common
can be skipped if necessary. It can also be done at thebeing regular and Navajo.
same time as carding.Regular plying consists of taking two or more singles
Cleaning Before carding the wool, it must be cleaned.and twisting them together, the opposite way. This can
At this point the fleece is full of lanolin and oftenbe done on either a spinning wheel or a spindle. The
contains vegetable matter, such as sticks, twigs, bursmost important thing to remember though is that the
and straw. One way to prevent the vegetable mattertwist must go the opposite direction. If in spinning the
from getting into the fleece is to have the sheep wearsingle the wheel was spinning clockwise (which is
a coat all year round.called a "Z" twist, as on any given side the fibres
At this point there are two ways to go.appear to cross diagonally in the same direction as the
The first is to simply pick out the vegetable matter, anddiagonal of a "Z"), in order to ply it the wheel must spin
move on to the next step. The lanolin is kept in thecounter-clockwise (an "S" twist).
wool.This is because otherwise you are not balancing the
People who enjoy spinning 'in the grease' (i.e. spinningtwist, just twisting it more. The concept is similar to
with the lanolin still in the wool) prefer this method, andwhen a heavily twisted piece of yarn is folded, and it
wait to wash the lanolin out until they finish spinning.twists up on itself. It is most common for singles to be
The lanolin can be left in the wool after spinning asspun with a "Z" twist, and then plied with an "S" twist.
well, making the fabric or garment water repellent. IfNavajo plying consists of making large loops, similar to
one doesn't want to spin in the grease, the other optioncrocheting. First make a loop about 8 inches long
is to take both the vegetable matter and the lanolin out.through the loop on the end on the leader. (A leader is
Washing the wool at this stage can be a tediousthe string left on the bobbin to spin off of.) Start
process, if you let it. Some people wash it a smallspinning all three strands together in the opposite
handful at a time very carefully, and then set it out todirection than that they were spun in. When only 2 to 3
dry on a table in the sun. Other people will stick theinches remain of the loop, pull a new loop of yarn
whole fleece in a tub of water and soap (dishwashingthrough the loop, and continue spinning. The new loop
detergent works well), let it sit, swish it around, and refillshould be around 7 inches long. Repeat this process
the tub with new water occasionally until the fleece isuntil the yarn is all plied. Only one single is necessary,
clean (of soap and dirt). One carding mill puts theand if the single is already dyed this technique allows it
fleece in a washing machine (that has been slightlyto be plied without ruining the colour scheme. This
modified for this purpose) and melts the lanolin awaytechnique also allows the spinner to try to match up
by soaking the fleece in very hot water. All thesethick and thin spots in the yarn, thus making for a
methods work. The thing not to do when washingsmoother end product.
fleece is to rub it against itself too much. If the fleeceMost spinners (who use spinning wheels) ply from
gets agitated, it will become felt, and then spinning it isbobbins. This is easier than plying from balls because
impossible. Felting, when done on purpose (withthere is less chance for the yarn to become tangled
needles, chemicals, or simply rubbing the fibres againstand knotted if it is simply unwound from the bobbins.
each other), can be used to create garments.So that the bobbins can unwind freely, they are put in
Carding Before spinning it is a good idea to get thea device called a lazy kate, or sometimes simply kate.
fleece into a slightly more manageable state. It isThe simplest lazy kate consists of wooden bars with
possible to spin directly from a fleece, if it is a verya metal rod running between them. Most hold between
clean one, but it is much easier to spin a carded fleece.three and four bobbins. The bobbin sits on the metal
Carding by hand yields a rolag, a loose woollen roll ofrod. Other lazy kates are built with devices that create
fibres.an adjustable amount of tension, so that if the yarn is
Using a drum carder yields a bat, which is a mat ofjerked, a whole bunch of yarn is not wound off, then
fibres in a flat, rectangular shape. Most carding millswound up again in the opposite direction. Some
return the fleece in a roving , which is a stretched bat;spinning wheels come with a built in lazy kate. Picture
it is very long and often the thickness of a wrist. (Aof lazy kates, with tension device.
pencil roving is a roving thinned to the width of a pencil.Washing If the lanolin was not washed out before, this
It is often used for knitting without any spinning, or foris the point at which it gets washed out, unless the
beginning spinners.) Many hand-spinners send theirlanolin is to be left in the cloth as a water repellent.
wool out to carding mills to be carded, as oneWhen washing a skein it works well to let the wool
good-sized fleece may take weeks to card with asoak in soapy water overnight, and rinse the soap out
drum-carder, or an eternity by hand. If the fleece isin the morning. Dishwashing detergents are commonly
sent to a carding mill, it must be washed beforeused, and a special laundry detergent designed for
carded.washing wool is not required. The dishwashing
Most mills offer washing the wool as a service, withdetergent works and does not harm the wool. After
extra fees if the wool is exceptionally dirty. Otherwashing, let the wool dry (air drying works best). Once
hand-spinners simply buy their fibres pre-carded.it is dry, or just a bit damp, one can stretch it out a bit
Spinning Hand spinning can be done many differenton a niddy-noddy. Putting the wool back on the
ways, the two most common being by use of theniddy-noddy makes for a nicer looking finished skein.
spinning wheel or the spindle.Before taking a skein and washing it, the skein must be
Spinning turns the carded wool fibres into yarn whichtied up loosely in about six places. If the skein is not
can then be directly woven, knitted (flat or circular),tied up, it will be very hard to unravel when done
crocheted, or by other means turned into fabric or awashing.