| 1. Unfused collars and cuffs - Many shirtmakers these | | | | with single needle stitching throughout. never accept |
| days fuse collars and cuffs. This means that they glue | | | | side seams made with dual needles. |
| the interlining to the shirt cotton. They argue that it | | | | 5. Pattern Matching - Collars, plackets, yokes should all |
| keeps the collars and cuffs flat. However, a well made | | | | be pattern matched. There really is no excuse for this |
| non-fused collar and cuff will always look better than a | | | | not to be the case. |
| fused and will still lay flat when ironed. | | | | 6. Butterfly gusset - So many shirtmakers these days |
| 2. Split Yoke - A split yoke allows the shirt to easily be | | | | use a horrible triangle of material as a gusset |
| modified to fit unusually dropped shoulders. More | | | | strengthener. A hexagonal butterfly is much nicer. |
| importantly in my opinion they also allow pattern | | | | 7. Mother of Pearl Buttons - I find it incredible that |
| matching between yoke and sleeves and also create | | | | some bespoke shirt makers charge extra for this. |
| a nice looking chevron effect adding style to the shirt. | | | | Why would they want to put anything less on their |
| 3. High density stitching - A quality bespoke shirt will not | | | | shirts? |
| have stitching of less than 15 stitches per inch. This | | | | 8. High Quality fabrics - The best cotton fabrics come |
| ensures that the seams will be durable and also | | | | from Italy and Switzerland. Look for Alumo, Albini, Monti, |
| makes the stitching less noticeable. | | | | SIC Tess and Canclini. 2-ply cotton must be used and |
| 4. Single needle stitching - as well as high density | | | | yarn count for all but Oxfords should be 100 or greater. |
| stitching, a quality bespoke shirt will always be made | | | | |